Why should you check garments' composition?
Discover what's behind garments' composition and how to make informed, conscious and responsible purchases
When purchasing new garments, most of consumers consider their look, hand feel and - last but not the least - price, but what about the actual quality?
It goes without saying that nobody wants ripping seams, popping buttons, pilling fabrics or color fades, in short, a garment that is bound to be thrown away after a short time. Whether a garment is durable or not totally depends on all of its different components and how they work together: the fabric it is made of, the seams, the lining, the tailoring and even smaller details like buttons and pockets.
Fabrics are the most important component of garments
No matter how beautiful the details or how well-crafted the seams are, a garment made from a low quality fabric is never a good addition to any wardrobe. Designers tend to focus on aesthetics; however, sometimes they might have missed to consider the materials. From fabric to fiber, every part is crucial to the outcome of a piece of clothing. There is one way to discover if the garment you are purchasing is valuable in this regard: checking its fibre content.
Fabrics' composition is an important quality indicator of your garment
Generally speaking, consumers have shown an increasing awareness on garments’ composition and their different impacts. Nowadays, clothes are made from a wide range of different materials, from natural ones, such as cotton, to man-made ones, such as polyester, acrylic, you name it. It is said that natural fibres are typically associated with quality and luxury, and that they’re always superior to synthetic ones. But this is something of a cliche, since quality is becoming, in part, a matter of what you need the garment to do and how it best can do it. Anyway, the best way to see if you are paying a fair price for your garment is checking wether your garment’s fabric is a blend or not; and – more importantly – what kind of blend.
Let's see the pros & cons of fiber blends
Nowadays, there is a great variety of animal, vegetal, man-made and synthetic fibers available, but none of them are perfect in one way or other. They all have some good, fair and poor technical characteristics. Man’s desire, to produce perfect fabrics or yarns resulted in the creation of “blends” – A mixture of two or more fibers that are spun together.
Brands use blended fabrics – or yarns – to combine different fibers’ properties and:
To improve the appearance of a fabric, such as texture, color, and tone
To improve the quality of a fabric, such as durability, strenght, comfort, and texture
To improve the ease of handling a fabric, such as to be sewed or retaining its shape
Here’s a breakdown of what the most common fibers bring to a blend:
Spandex/Elastane adds elasticity and comfort,
Polyester gives wash and wear benefits, increases wrinkle resistance, shape retention, durability
Rayon improves moisture absorbency, attracts less static and adds luster.
Acrylic improves softness
Acetate adds luster, shine and improves drapeability.
Cotton lessens static, increases absorbency, comfort, and dye-ability.
Wool adds warm and bulk, helps retain shape, increases absorbency and wrinkle resistance.
Silk adds comfort, luster, and prestige.
Angora hair adds fluffiness.
However, most of the time, blends are used to reduce costs by mixing expensive natural fibers with synthethic and cheaper ones, thus producing lower quality garments. For example, have you ever happened to see a “Wool Coat” that is not made with 100% wool or a “Wool Blend Coat” that contains just a small percentage of wool mixed with cheaper synthethics (Nylon, polyester, acrylic)? These are the things that consumers must watch out for, in order to be aware of what they buy and be sure to pay a fair price.
Discover all the fibers that are used in fashion, and be aware of their value
Fibers are raw materials that can be converted into yarns and fabrics; they can easily be classified into 3 types: natural fibers, man-made fibers and synthetic fibers. Natural fibers consist of both animal (protein-based) and plant (cellulose) fibers. Animal fibers derive from the hair, fur or secretion of animals, while plant fibers derive from various parts of plants. Man-made fibers derive from natural resources and go through an intensive chemical transformation. Synthetic fibers are developed through polymerization – a chemical process combining small molecules into polymers. Animal fibers are usually the most expensive ones, together with precious plant fibers like Flax and superior quality cottons (ex: Supima); while man-made fibers and – especially – synthethic fibers are cheaper.
Animal Fibers
WOOL (WO)
A precious and seasonless animal fiber deriving from sheep
Wool is a natural protein fiber obtained from sheep, and there are over 200 different breeds worldwide. Wool fibers are obtained by sheep shearing that usually occurs in spring or early summer. The quality is determined by wool classing. The fleece is then treated with chemicals to remove “wool greases” and pests before uses and bleaching is often needed for white wool. It is naturally crimpred and wavy with a lofty and slightly greasy hand feel before treated. Most wools are yellowish white or ivory, but some can also be black, brown and gray.
CASHMERE (WS)
A softer, finer, and more luxurious wool fiber collected from goat
Cashmere is collected only from the undercoat of the cashmere goat. Low in luster, the fiber is generally gray, brown, and white. Due to its rare production, the fiber alone is considered very luxurious, and is sometimes mixed with very soft wool.
MOHAIR (WM)
A long, lustrous, and warm animal fiber
Mohair is a silk-like fiber from the hair of the Angora goat. A long, white fiber that is notable for its high sheen and smooth feel, it is considered a luxury fiber like silk and cashmere, and has been given the nickname “diamond fiber”. It is often blended with other fibers, such as wool and alpaca.
YAK (WY)
A versatile and sustainable alternative to cashmere
Yak fiber is produced from the coat hair of yaks, a long-haired bovine known as “hairy cattle” in CHina. There are two coats of yak fiber, naturally ranging from brown to black in color. The fine yak fibers are considered warmer than merino, as soft as cashmere and as tough as camel.
CAMEL (WK)
A lightweight, smooth and soft natural fiber
A natural animal hair fiber, this specialty hair is usually a golden tan shade. The fibers consist of two parts: outer guard hair and an undercoat. Outer guard hair is straighter and coarser, while the undercoat is soft and fine.
ALPACA (WP)
A rare, natural animal fiber that is softer than cashmere
Alpaca is a natural mammal fiber from the South American camelid family. Its fiber is considered premium due to being light, fine, and warm. The fiber comes in a huge variety of colors ranging from white, light brown, dark brown, and gray. It is also relatively rare to find and is often blended with cashmere, mohair, and silk to improve softness and to make luxurious garments.
LLAMA (WL)
A mammal fiber that is similar to alpaca, but less fine and soft
Llama is a natural mammal fiber from the South American camelid family. This fiber is similar to alpaca, but is thicker and less premium. Llamas have a double coat of fiber: a silky, wavy undercoat and a thicker, coarser outer coat. Generally, llama fibers are shades of brown, but can also contain specks of black and white.
QIVIUT
A rare, lightweight and soft underwool fiber
Qiviut is the underneath wool fiber of the muskox, and is usually grayish-brown in color. For better quality, it can be spun into pure yarn or blended with merino, alpac, cashmere, or silk. The price of qiviut fiber is high since its production volume is very limited.
VICUNA (WL)
A rare, valuable and delicate animal fiber
Vicuna is a silky, fine wool fiber from the undercoat of the vicuna. It is usually brown in color or has natural colors. Loro Piana, LVMH-owned, is the only company which is able to process and export vicuna textiles.
SILK (SE)
One of the oldest known luxury natural fibers
Silk is a very special natural fiber. Textile-used silk was often obtained from moth caterpillars. Long considered a luxury fiber, it is sometimes referred to as the “queen of fabrics”. Silk is the only natural filament fiber and is soft, lustrous, shiny, and smooth to the touch.
ANGORA (WA)
A soft animal fiber with a floaty and fluffy feel
Angora is a fine and soft fiber of the Angora rabbit, which has very long and flexible hair. Various colors are available, including pure white, gray, brown, and black. Garments knitted from Angora fiber feel like fur. SOmetimes, it is blended with wool to enhance its elasticity.
HORSE HAIR
A long, coarse hair from the manes and tails of horses
Horse hair is an animal protein fiber obtained from the manes and tails of horses. Hair from the mane is softe, while hair from the tail is coarser. Most horsehair comes from slaughtered horses, and is often balck and lustrous.
Plant Fibers
COTTON (CO)
The most popular fiber in the world
Cotton is a seed fiber grown as a protective case around the seed of the cotton plant. Known to be the most popular natural fiber in the world, it is soft and fluffy to the touch and is usually off-white in color. The grade of cotton depends on cleanliness, whiteness, fiber lenght, and fiber strenght, but a longer staple usually indicates higher quality with a smoother handfeel. The best cotton qualities are Supima from America, Sea Island cotton from the Caribbean, and Giza cotton from Egypt.
FLAX (LI)
A sustainable fiber that produces linen fabrics
Flax is one of the oldest and strongest natural bast fibers and is extracted from flax or linseed plants. It is a stiff, crispy fiber with a natural luster. Its color usually ranges from ivory to light tan to gray.
HEMP (CA/HA)
An important fiber for sustainable textiles
Hemp is a natural plant fiber extracted from the bast of cannabis sativa. It is often considered as a “super fiber”. True hemp is fine, light-colored and lustrous. It is naturally one of the most environmentally friendly fibers. Fine quality hemp fabrics can be compared to linen. It is also sued to blend with other fibers to improve its touch.
JUTE (JU)
A low-cost, low-maintenance, and fast-growing fiber
Jute is a highly lignified natural plant fiber that is extracted from the corchorus plant. It is also known as the “golden fiber” as it is generally golden-brown in color with a natural luster. It is only second to cotton when it comes to production and global consumption, as well as being one of the most affordable fibers.
RAMIE (RA)
A strong plant fiber that is similar to linen
Ramie, also commonly known as China grass or rhea, is one of the oldest fibers cultivated for textiles. It is also one of the strongest natural plant fibers. Naturally white in color and with silk.like luster, it is similar to linen. To improve its properties, it can also be blended with other fibers including cotton, polyester, and wool.
BAMBOO (BB)
A strong plant fiber with outstanding biodegradability
Bamboo is a natural bast fiber obtained from the pulp of bamboo plants. It can be processed into two major types of fiber: bamboo linen and bamboo viscose, which is the method used for the majority of bamboo fabric. Bamboo fiber is usually blended with other materials to make fabric.
SISAL (SI)
A coarse and strong fiber often used for ropes
SIsal is a natural fiber obtained from the leaves of the sisal plant. it is a hard and long fiber, where the leaves are beaten to separate tough fibers from the weak. The fiber has a coarse texture with lustrous, creamy white colors.
ABACA (AB)
A low-cost and renewable fiber that can achieve a silk-like texture
Abaca, also known as Manila hemp, is extracted from the leaf sheath around the trunk of the abaca plant (also known as Musa texilis). A close relative of the banana tree, it is considered among the strongest natural fibers, and is usually up to 3 meters long. The best grades of the fiber are fine, lustrous, and light beige in color. Cellulose abaca fibers are relatively smooth and straight.
KAPOK (KP)
A renewable, natural plant fiber often referred to as "poor man's silk"
Kapok is a natural cellulose plant fiber obtained from the fruit of the kapok tree, or the tree itself. It is sometimes referred to as Java cotton, ceiba, Java Kapok, or silk cotton. The color ranges from white, pale yellow, to light brown, and consists of silky and lustrous textures. It is often blended with other fibers.
Man-made Fibers
ACETATE (AC)
A silky, soft man-made material that is often blended with other fibers
Acetate is one of the earliest semi-synthetic fibers produced by treating wood pulp or cotton linters with acetate acid and acetylating hydroxyl groups. With a silky, soft texture and a lustrous sheen, it is commonly used as an alternative to silk. While it shares many similar properties to rayon, they differ in their production processes.
VISCOSE RAYON (VI)
A versatile fiber often referred to as artificial silk
Viscose Rayon was the first manufactured semi-synthetic fiber made from wood pulp or cotton linters, and it has a silky texture. It blends well with other fibers to create fabrics that feel soft and silky. There are many varieties of rayon, which slightly differ from each other in the manufacturing process and properties.
MODAL (MD)
A beechwood-based rayon as a replacement for cotton
A beechwood pulp fiber with a smoother surface and softer touch than rayon viscose. Durable, breathable, and shrink resistant.
LYOCELL (LY)
A wood pulp-based regenerated fiber
A bleached wood pulp fiber with high tensibility and the ability to absorb moisture. It is stronger and more breathable than rayon viscose and also the most enrivonmentally-friendly option among all rayon variations. It is also an eco-silk alternative as it can be spun into long yarns that are silky and smooth.
CUPRO (CU)
An elastic and shiny regenerated rayon
A cotton linter regenerated fiber with a silky, smooth texture and a shiny surface. The fiber is anti-static, stretchable, and can regulate body temperature, which is why it is widely used as interfacing.
SOYBEAN PROTEIN (SPF)
A sustainable alternative to silk also known as vegetable cashmere or "silk for vegans"
Soybean protein fiber (SPF) is also known as soy silk and vegetable cashmere. It is an environmentally friendly regenerated plant protein fiber made from soy pulp, which is the insoluble part of soybeans and also a by-product of tofu and soy milk production. This fiber is usually blended with other fibers to increase drape and strenght.
MILK CASEIN
A regenerated fiber that resembles wool
Milk casein fiber is a regenerated animal protein fiber obtained by the acid treatment of skimmed milk. The fiber is white, creamy, and lustrous in color and naturally crimped. It is usually blended with other fibers.
Synthetic Fibers
POLYESTER (PL)
One of the world's most used synthetic fibers
Being a synthetic fiber derived from petroleum, polyester is generally available in two types: polyethylene terephthalate (PET) and poly-1, 4-cyclohexylene terephthalate (PCDT). PET is a stronger type of polyester, which is more popular for clothing and commonly blended with natural fibers. PCDT is more often used in furnishings due to its elastic and resilient properties.
NYLON (PA)
A durable and elastic synthetic fiber
Nylon, also called polyamides (PA), is derived from petroleum. The two most common types of nylon are nylon 6 and nylon 6.6. Originally created as a thermoplastic substitute for silk, it is one of the strongest fibers and is very elastic. It is often blended with other fibers to improve properties.
SPANDEX (EL/EA)
An incredibly stretchy fiber that is a key component of elastic fabrics
Spandex, or Elastane, is segmented polyurethane and is also a by-product of petroleum. It is a white-colored synthetic fiber made to provide elasticity. The fiber can stretch to over 500% of its lenght and recover to its original lenght immediately. It is often blended with other fibers to offer additional stretch.
ACRYLIC (PC)
A synthetic fiber that is similar to wool but much cheaper
Acrylic fiber is made from a synthetic polymer called acrylonitrille. It is produced by reacting certain petroleum or coal-based chemicals with a variety of monomers. It has a wool-like aesthetic and can be used on its own, or blended with other natural and synthetic fibers.
About Manteco, Italian premium textiles and circularity since 1943
After decades in the fashion world, in 2018, we have created the Manteco Academy project, through which we give webinars, in-person lessons and workshops on eco-design, circular economy and sustainability to numerous fashion schools, technical universities and brands worldwide. Thanks to this educative commitment and our heritage, we are often invited as guest speaker at events, panels, podcasts and conferences about sustainable fashion and circular economy.