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Heritage, Durable, Water Repellent

Performance fabrics for trench coats

A trench history, made of research and passion: an innovative collection of performing fabrics for an evergreen piece of clothing

In Pluvia® Temporis is the result of a great collaboration between Manteco and Daniele Giannini, an exceptional fashion archivist. Our company had the great opportunity to visit and be inspired by his historical garments archive, by touching historical trench fabrics, their textures and peculiarities. Thanks to a great design effort and a deep analysis on yarns and finishing we managed to create this collection of performing fabrics for trench coats, which is bound to help designers in creating unique garments. "A fabric is a weave, a weft, like history. It is not about work, but a passion that wants to be told to everyone in the world. This is why projects like this are born. this is why In Pluvia® Temporis is born".

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Trench coats have largely proved their timelessness over the decades, and nowadays they are still essential and must-have garments of most fashion brands’ collections.

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The trench coat wasn’t exactly invented for use during the war that gave it its name, but it was during the First World War that this now iconic garment took the shape that we recognize today, a form that remains startlingly current despite being more than 100 years old. These iconic waterproof coats were created in the first place by Scottish chemist and inventor Charles Macintosh and British inventor Thomas Hancock in the early 1820s. Their rain-repellent garment, also called the “mack”, was made from rubberized cotton and intended as outerwear for the well-dressed man whose days involved riding, shooting, fishing, outdoor activities and military service (source: Vogue). As technology evolved along the years, they became more breathable, less sweaty, and even better at repelling water. 1853 was a breakthrough year, as a tailor named John Emary developed an improved raincoat, which he produced under the name of his company Aquascutum (from Latin, meaning “water” and “shield”). Thomas Burberry followed suit in 1856 by weatherproofing the individual strands of cotton and wool fibre rather than the finished textile. Burberry’s “gabardine” fabric, invented in 1879, was the most breathable yet, proving popular with explorers, aviators, and other adventurous gentlemen. Both Aquascutum and Burberry take credit for having “invented” the WWI trench coat, but the truth is that the two firms helped popularize a type of coat already in existence, adapting it for military use.